Article by Keith Meyers

There are few things that can make my heart pound and my hands shake like the sight of a big carp cruising in shallow water. No other game fish here in the northwest offers such a unique fly-fishing experience, one requiring stealth, patience and pinpoint accuracy. Add in their size and abundance, and carp become almost the perfect fly rod game fish.

Equipment

Fly fishing for carp is a sight fishing game, one where you will be trying to spot the carp before he spots you, get your fly as close as you can, and then hopefully watch the fish take. All of these require that you be able to clearly see the fish. Polarized sunglasses are a must, as is a hat. A baseball cap is the bare minimum, and some sort of wide brimmed hat is even better.

Just about any rod you have in your quiver will work for carp, as long as you are not afraid to put a serious bend in it. While a 7or 8weight will allow you to lean on them a bit harder, a lighter rod and line will allow you to make a gentler presentation, which is a critical part of this sport. Shorter rods are a bit more accurate, and this too is critical. Long casts are almost never necessary, most casts will be less than 40’, some a lot less. Fighting butts come in really handy, and although almost no rods under 6 weight have these from the factory, they can be easily added.

Reels need to have a decent drag and plenty of backing in good shape. Multiplying reels will let you get all that backing back onto your reel a bit faster. Speaking of backing, when was the last time you saw yours? While not every carp will take your whole fly line, many will, and a few will seem like they are never going to stop. If you have not checked the condition of your backing, and the strength of the knot attaching your fly line to your backing, it would be a good idea to do this before the carp get a chance to do it for you!

Leaders should be stout; 1x and 2x work well. Carp are generally not leader shy, and using anything lighter than 3x can turn into a waste of good flies. Depending on the fishing conditions, leaders can be from 6 to 12 feet in length. Shorter leaders will provide a bit more accuracy and will help you keep track of your fly’s location, while longer leaders can be of benefit if the carp are being exceptionally spooky. Many store bought leaders look like coiled springs when removed from the package and these should be thoroughly stretched and straightened, as all those curls will make it all that much harder to keep in touch with what is happening at the end of your line. While you might think that strike indicators would be effective in fly-fishing for carp, they actually create a couple of problems. Focusing on the indicator, waiting for it to move, will take your eyes off what you should be focusing on - the fish - and they also create that much more surface disturbance, which is the last thing you want.

A floating fly line is all you will need for most of your carping, although there is room for experimenting here. Intermediate lines help to get through the wind and under the waves that so often plague the Columbia Basin, and also create less surface disturbance, so they can work well on those really skittery fish. As with leaders, making sure the line is free of kinks and curls before you start will be worth the effort.

Carp eat almost everything, and most of the ones we will be fishing for will be near the bottom looking for something to eat, so nymph type flies work well. Sizes 10 thru 6 will cover most situations. Often carp are spooked by the splash of the fly, so if this is the case you will need to switch to a smaller or lighter fly. The instant, visual feedback carp will give you is a valuable tool and will allow you to quickly make corrections if you will pay attention to what the carp are telling you. Hooks should be heavy wire; carp are big powerful fish and will quickly straighten light wire hooks. Light colored flies seem to appeal to carp, as well as being easier for the fisherman to spot underwater than drab or dark flies. Flies should have enough weight to get down to the fishes’ level, but not so much that they end up dragging on the bottom. Just a casual look at a carp’s eyes will reveal that carp see very well above and to the side, and not so well directly below them. While they will certainly take flies directly off the bottom, a fly at about the carp’s eye level will be hard to resist. So for most carping, a #8 short shank, heavy-wire fly with perhaps a little bit of lead will be about right.

Casting to the Right Carp

If you have spent any time around water inhabited by carp, you have probably seen them hanging just under the surface by the dozens, or jumping wildly and chasing each other around the shallows. While these carp can be caught, they are not actively feeding and are going to be real tough. The carp we are looking for will not be quite so obvious; they will be cruising slowly near the bottom, perhaps stopping to check out a tidbit here and there, or they will be tailing or rooting with their heads down in the mud or gravel and their tails waving above them, sometimes clearly visible above the surface. Such carp are hungry and looking, and will be good targets. Sometimes finding such fish takes some walking and some serious looking, but it will be worth your time to find the right fish to cast to.

Casting to the Right Spot

Years ago a carp on a mud flat charged from ten feet away to take my slowly sinking fly. This is NOT usual carp behavior. Most of the time carp will not move more than a foot to take a fly, and many times will not move that far. Trying to get your fly and the carp within a few inches of each other, taking into account water depth, current, wind, and the carp’s movements and speed is the biggest challenge facing the carp fly fisherperson. Casting past the fish, then quickly pulling the fly back to where you want it to start sinking is a good plan. Ideally you want the fly to sink slowly right past the carp’s nose. If the cast was not right or the carp has changed direction, there’s no use wasting time - pick up your line and try again. Often it takes several casts to get the fly close to the business end of the carp, and often they spook before you can accomplish this task. Let them go once they are spooked. Most the time they will just slowly swim off. Trying to make one more cast to a fish that has already figured out that something “fishy” is going on can often result in a fish bolting wildly, spooking other nearby carp. Carp are lazy, and almost never chase a fly, so once you suspect your fly is near the carp, move it very little if at all. Moving it too much at this point will either spook the carp or take it out of the carp’s range.

To Strike or Not to Strike?

That is the question facing you once the fly and the carp are in the same spot. One magazine article a few years ago called this the “Zen” of carp fishing, and that is what it is. In a perfect world you would see the carp move to your fly and suck it in, but given variables such as water clarity, depth, wind, glare and distance, this is the exception and not the rule. Once the carp has moved to the general area of your fly, watch him closely for clues. Many times a carp will stop and dip its head down as it takes a fly near the bottom. Sometimes you will see him turn suddenly, and often you will see him flare his gills and fins as he sucks something in. While trout show the white of their mouths when they take something, many times carp will show orange as they extend their mouth. Tailing carp will often stop digging at the bottom for a few seconds as they chomp a few times on your fly. If you have access to some goldfish, take them some treats and watch their reaction as they find them. Carp exhibit the same reactions. You can also watch the end of your line, and occasionally you will see it twitch as the carp takes the fly. Carp almost never “strike” a fly hard, so if you are expecting a strong jerk on your line you are going to be in for a long wait! Instead, when you suspect or sense that the carp has your fly, slowly tighten your line and feel for resistance. If it feels like fish, lift your rod and hang on. Fishing in water where you cannot clearly see the fish will complicate matters even more, and this is where good Zen comes in handy. Watch your leader carefully for any little twitch, and don’t be afraid to tighten the line any time the carp’s actions change at all. You will likely get several casts at carp in this situation, for they also cannot see you clearly. All this will come easier with a bit of practice, and even experienced carp fly fishermen will admit to not always knowing when the carp has the fly.

Where oh Where to Go??

Washington State is blessed (?) with some incredible carp water, and since listing it all would take forever, I’ll just mention a few spots where I have some personal experience. The Columbia River and its tributaries in the Basin have good carp water almost everywhere, including the area downstream of Kennewick, the sloughs around Plymouth, and even the Ringold area. On the north end of Richland the river has some shallow flats that are full of feeding carp in the summer. The Yakima River has good carping for spooky, picky fish in many areas, including the river right under the I-82 bridge by Richland and below Horn Rapids Dam. Further north Sprague Lake and the other lakes further down Cow Creek all offer good carping, with a lot of mirror carp showing up here. I have never fly fished for carp in Moses Lake itself, but have had great carping in Crab Creek just north of the lake, and am looking forward to exploring the lake itself. The Potholes area is ripe for exploration, and some of my favorite spots there include Soda, Long and Cresent lakes - these all have huge carp in them. Banks Lake has spacious carp flats and even a few guides taking clients out fly-fishing for carp! This is just a tiny list of spots that have carp - get out and explore in your area and you probably won’t be disappointed. Bear in mind when looking for good spots that you want to find shallow, warm water, preferably clear enough that you can see the fish. Try to avoid areas that are extremely muddy and soft. Although these spots often have fish in them, the fish will be hard to see well, and this is not pleasant or productive carping. Carp can be found as early as March, and they will be in the warmest sections of whatever body of water you happen to be exploring. Come late summer and fall, carp can be found almost anywhere, and this is a good time to start walking the river banks looking for good targets to cast to. Remember to look for fish that are feeding, and try to ignore those that are not.

Odds and Ends

Those carp we talked about earlier, hanging just under the surface sunning themselves? If you must try, they can be caught. For these fish you want a fly that just barely sinks, an Elk Hair Caddis soaked so it sinks will works well for this. Once again, try casting past the fish and pulling the fly back to them. Since they are usually stationary and near the top, getting a fly close to a carp in this setting is easier than casting to a fish under two feet of water. Since they are not actively feeding, you need to get the fly REALLY close to the fish’s eyes or mouth. This can be really slow, unproductive carping, but if you must…

Carp feeding on the surface or “clooping” are fun and challenging. Often these will be the spookiest carp around, so longer leaders and smaller flies come into play here. Try to get a small dry fly as close to the fish as you can, as moving the fly much will usually result in a spooked carp. Once you see a carp start to take your fly, wait to strike as long as you can. The sucking in of your fly happens slowly, and it is easy to get excited and take the fly away from the fish. Carp will sometimes cruise along just under the surface and rise to whatever they can spot, just like a trout would. These can be a real “sucker” for a well-placed fly. Also, there have been several times when, while fishing the sloughs along the Columbia, I have found schools of carp facing into the oncoming waves clooping away. Again, a fly floated to the feeding fish worked well. Remember, though, that the vast majority of carp that you should be casting to will be on or near the bottom.

Putting it All Together

The big day has finally come and you’ve found a spot that should have some carp. You have on good sunglasses and a hat, and have your rod rigged with a 9’ 2x leader and a #6 wooly bugger. As you approach the water you hear a carp jump out in the distance and your pace quickens just a bit. Once on the shore you look around to see if you can see anything moving, then start walking the bank. Within a few yards there appears a big streak of mud in the water in front of you as a carp flees to deeper water. Dang!
Slower now, up ahead you see a muddy area and even a bit of a wake. A few more feet and you can make out the outline of the fish, working in the gravel just a few feet from shore. Nervously you strip out some line and make that first cast. The fly lands just past the fish--perfect-- and you watch in horror as the fish stops feeding and slowly fades into the depths. This happens with the next three carp you actually manage to cast to, and you start to wonder if this is all a big fish story. Hang in there! You switch to an unweighted #8 Hare’s ear, and soon see a dark spot in the water ahead. Staying further back this time, you cast at what you suspect is the business end of the fish and let the fly settle, then slowly strip it back to you. The fish doesn’t move, so you cast again, this time taking a step closer, and again the fish ignores your fly. Another step and you realize that you have been casting to a hunk of sunken driftwood. As you stand there feeling rather stupid, you see another carp cruising towards you near the bottom. Casting way out in front of him you stand riveted in place as you watch your fly slowly disappear and the carp draw nearer. When the carp seems to be a few feet from where you hope your fly is, you strip in a foot of line to move your fly just a bit. Did the carp just change direction a little? Did he just STOP? Lifting the rod slowly you are stunned to see the line draw tight - fish on!!! Water flies everywhere as the carp bolts for deeper water, your rod flexes further than you thought possible, and you realize too late that you have the reel’s spool trapped in your hand. The 2x tippet pops, your whole body shakes, you stare into the water, and realize that although the carp is off, YOU are hooked so securely that you will never be the same again!

You take the time to get into just the right location in that great stream that your friend told you about. You have been waiting for so long to enjoy this time, alone, fishing to your content. There are many amazing moments in life but fly fishing is one of your favorite. You get into the waders, getting into just that right location so that you can cast.

The tip of your rod should be in the four o' clock position with 20 feet (6 meters) of line extended beyond your rod's tip. Trap the line between the rod handle and your index finger. To begin the back cast, bend your elbow, raise your forearm and move the rod tip from four o'clock to eleven thirty and lift the line from the water. Pause for a moment at this point to allow the line to extend behind you before casting the rod forward. Allow the rod to follow through as the line extends to its full length in front of you. Then continue to work the line in this manner. A fish strikes. The fight is on and you successfully land the fish. This is fly casting.

Fly fishing is an old method of angling. It was primarily developed to catch trout and salmon. Today, it is still used to fish these species, but is also used to catch bass, carp, pike and a wide range of saltwater fish. The difference between casting and fly fishing is that in casting you use the weight of your bait, sinker and bobber to propel your cast. In fly fishing, the weight of the line propels your line forward and puts your fly into position. The fly cannot do this, as it is essentially weightless. The goal in fly fishing is to present the fly gently and to always be in control of it.

When you fly fish, you need special fishing equipment that includes a fly rod and reel, a special fly fishing line and artificial or live flies. These are tied onto your hook with feathers, fur, thread or other materials in colors and sizes that represent natural prey. The key to successful fly fishing is balance. The rod, reel and line, as well as the tippet all have to match in order to have a positive fly fishing experience.

Rod, Reels and Lines Fly fishing rods are lightweight and long. The line provides the casting weight and is heavy. It can be of differing density, depending on whether you want the fly to sink or float. Line is matched to your rod by weight. Look near the fly rod butt to find out what line weight must be used. Graphite rods are best because they can produce any action that you wish to use. If you are a beginner, buy a basic and moderately priced rod, or borrow one from a family member or friend.

Flies and Leaders Flies weigh very little. The fly is usually attached to the line by a leader that is two to three meters in length (6 to 9 feet). The leader often tapers to a fine end. This is called a tippet. Tippet size range from 8X, which is the smallest, to 0X, which is the largest. Tippets are set in units of .001 inches. To match the tippet to the fly, you must subtract from eleven and multiply by .001.

For example to find the diameter of a 4X tippet, you would subtract four from eleven. That equals seven. Now, multiply by .001. This size would be .007. What if you have a # 18 fly? How would you calculate tippet size? You would put eighteen over four and calculate. The answer would be 4.5. Since there is no 4.5 X tippet, you would move to the next largest size, which would be 5.

Types of Fly Fishing There are two types of fly fishing - dry and wet. Wet flies are fished beneath the water surface and are divided into several types, including live wet flies, lures and nymphs. Dry flies float on the water surface and are coated with a substance called, 'floatant' to make this possible.

If you are interested in fly fishing and can't decide which equipment you need to have a positive fishing experience, ask an experienced angler for help. This can be a family member, friend, someone from the local angler's club or a staff member of the local fly fishing shop. Fly fishing is not as hard to learn as it appears to be. Have fun and enjoy that big catch.

The best way to enjoy your catch is to take the time to enjoy the many wonders that the fishing experience offers. No matter what that first adventure turns out to be, you can make it amazing by spending some time learning the skills from an experienced fisherman.

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When fly fishing for trout it is especially important to understand the various types of trout lies. Trout take up their positions, or lies, based on a set of three of their basic needs when they are in moving water. These needs are shelter from a constant current, protection from predators, and the need for adequate food.

Swimming against a strong current can be very tiring for a trout. Therefore, they look for shelter from the current which is their first need. Sometimes the trout rest behind objects in the water, such as a large rock, which breaks the current. But most of the time trout stay in holding lies that are close to the current. They want to be able to dash out and grab any food that the current brings their way.

The second need that the trout have is protection from predators. They generally prefer water that is deep enough, or rough enough, that they cannot be seen on the bottom by predatory birds such as kingfishers or osprey. The trout usually hold where there is some type of cover to protect them. They look for cover, such as a log, a deep pool, or an undercut bank to keep safe. At times while fly fishing, you might see small or medium sized trout feeding in the shallows far from any type of shelter. However, it is very unusual to see large trout feeding in the shallows, unless there is some type of cover nearby.

The third need, which often overrides the other two, is the need for adequate food. It seems trout live by a basic formula - the food it eats must give it more energy then they expend getting it. A trout will fight against a strong current if hatching, migrating, or drifting insects appear. To the trout the amount of food that the insects offer justifies the extra energy needed to fight the current. Often, during a heavy hatch, trout may hold near the surface of a pool, or flat, putting themselves in danger from predators while they greedily feed.

For fly fishing, knowing the three basic needs of trout which cause them to hold in certain types of water, while avoiding others, is an invaluable piece of knowledge. Knowing the spots of the water that meets one, two, or three of the trout's basic needs, is knowing where the fish are holding.

Trout have three types of holding lies. Deep holes which look like dark areas in the streambed are often used to escape from the current. The best deep holes have boulders or logs for cover. Eddies below points, such as the edge of a boulder, create a slack water pool, and sometimes a reverse current pool, that often hold many trout. Upwelling springs appear as light spots of bubbling sand where the silt has been washed away. Many trout are drawn to these springs in the summer and the winter because they have a stable temperature.

Successful fly fishing depends on knowing as much as possible about the habits and habitats of the fish you are hoping to hook.

If you have decided to start fly fishing, one of the most difficult steps is the selection of your first outfit. To be a successful fly fisherman it is essential that each piece of your outfit works together in a comfortable and efficient way. When all the pieces work together, an outfit t is said to be balanced. The five essential pieces that make up an outfit include the line, rod, reel, leader, and fly.

Many people that are beginning fly fishing chose their line first. This is because it is necessary to choose the line weight. There are dozens of different types of lines for fly fishing. Picking the correct one is very important One of the main things to remember is that it is critical that the line weight designation in the code matches the one on the rod that is used. The most common type of line used by beginning fly fishermen is the double tapered line.

There are many types of lines including weight forward, shooting taper, level line and tapered line. The function of the line chosen for your first balanced outfit should be floating. About 95% of the time a floating line will fit your need when fly fishing. The weight of your first line will depend mostly on where you are going to fish.

When choosing you first fly fishing rod there are three main things to consider. These are the material the rod is made from, its length and its action. Fly fishing rods can be made from fiberglass, bamboo, graphite, or baron. Fiberglass is the least expensive material used to make a rod. However, it is losing some of its popularity because of its weight and required diameter. Bamboo, or cane, fly fishing rods are hand crafted works of art. Because of this they are very expensive. They also require a lot more care then a rod made from a synthetic material. The most popular fly fishing rod today is made of graphite. They are very light weight, durable, and are designed to provide the fisherman with any type of needed action. Rods made from baron are the most expensive of all the synthetic rods.

The reel that you choose for you first balanced fly fishing outfit will be one of three types: single action, multiplier, and automatic. A single action fly reel is a basic reel and should be the one chosen for your first balanced outfit. Multiplier and double action reels have their uses but neither should be the first one used for fly fishing.

In fly fishing, a fly leader is the little piece of monofilament line that is used to attach the end of the fly line to the to the fly. It is important to choose the correct leader to make sure that the power that is generated during the cast is transferred from the end of the fly line to the fly. There are many considerations when choosing the proper leader. These choices include whether the lead should be tapered or straight, knotted or knotless, how much it should weight, and the size of the tippet.

Choosing a fly for your first balanced fly fishing outfit will depend on many factors including where you are going to fish, the type of fish you are after, and your own personal preference.

Once you have chosen the five items that make up your balanced outfit for fly fishing you are ready to go out and cast your line and catch those fish.

In the world of fly fishing there are many words that are important to know. Many of these words are unusual or have a different meaning when used in reference to fly fishing. The following list includes some of the more unusual and double meaning words used by fly fishermen.
Action: a general term often used to try to describe the feel of the rod - such as sft, hard, slow, or fast

Attractor: usually a bright colored fly that is not usually tied so that it imitates a particular type of food

Belly: the sagging portion of a fly fishing line

Blank: a rod without a handle, reel seat, or guides

Blood Knot: the common name for a barrel knot

Chalk Stream: a stream, usually found in valleys, that is spring fed and slow moving with a lot of vegetation

Complex Hatch: the simultaneous hatching of several types of species of insects
Compound Hatch: the masking, or hiding, of a hatch of smaller insects by a hatch of larger insects that occurs on the same day
Cutthroat Trout: a true trout that is found mostly in the western part of the United States

Dapping: a fly fishing technique in which the fly is repeatedly bounced on and off of the surface of the water

Down Eye Hook: a hook that has the eye bent below the shaft

Dropper: the secondary fly that is attached to the leader in a cast of flies

Emerger: a term that is used to describe any insect that moves up towards the water's surface preparing to hatch into the adult stage

Feeding Lie: where a trout goes in order to actively feed

Flat-butt Leader: a fly used in fly fishing where the butt section is formed into a ribbon shape

Freestone Streams: fast moving, tumbling streams with rock covered bottoms

French Snap: a small clamp, often used by a fly fisherman to attach his net to his vest

Holding Lie: where a trout generally remains when not actively feeding

Leisenring Lift: a technique used in nymph fly fishing where the line is lifted, causing the imitation fly to move upwards, right in front of the trout's suspected lie

Midge Rod: a short, light weight rod

Natural - a living insect, as opposed to an artificial, or man-made, insect or fly

Nymphing: any oaf the various fishing techniques in which the fly fisherman presents an imitation of the underwater stage of an insect

Presentation: the method of placing a fly where the fish is most likely to see it; includes the manner in which the cast in completed and the method in which the fly is fished

Rise: the act of the fish taking an insect from the water's surface

Run: a term used to describe a particular stretch of moving water

Shooting: a casting technique

Spate: high water

Stripping: quickly retrieving line or pulling line from the reel

Terrestrial: of or relating to an insect whose life cycle is completely spent on land or in plants

Waders staff: a sturdy rod about as high as the armpit of the person fly fishing used for support in heavy water

There are many words and terms that are unfamiliar to most people but not to those who enjoy fly fishing.

Fly fishing is an interesting sport with a growing number of people participating. When people start out fly fishing they usually just buy all of the gear that they need, including their artificial flies. Once people get hooked on fly fishing though they often start thinking about making their own artificial flies as a way to stay involved with the sport during the off-season months. While some artificial flies can be tricky to make others are actually well within the abilities of the average fly fisher. Even children can learn to tie artificial flies and this is an excellent way to get them involved in the sport.

The earliest description of tying artificial flies dates back to the 2nd century. Macedonian anglers, fishing on the Astraeus River, had devised a method of fly fishing using artificial flies. These Macedonian fly fishermen started with a hook and then tied red-dyed wool around the hook. They would then tie small feathers onto the red wool to complete the artificial fly. Apparently these fishermen were quite successful with their primitive artificial flies.

18th century American fly fishermen took the design of artificial flies to a new level while studying the trout streams of the New York Catskill Mountains. These fishermen discovered that their success with fly fishing could be greatly improved by designing artificial flies that mimicked the native insects around the stream. These artificial flies successfully fooled the trout into thinking that a real insect had landed on the water. This knowledge gave rise to studying insect hatches to determine which artificial fly would be most successful. Different artificial flies are successful on different water at different times.

Artificial flies were originally made using natural materials like feathers, fur, wool and similar materials. Most artificial flies are now made using synthetic materials. Another recent development in artificial fly design has been the use of the barbless hook. Many fly fishers practice "catch and release" and extracting a barbed hook from a fish after landing it can be quite difficult. While barbless hooks make it somewhat more challenging to keep the fish on the hook they are easier to extract - from the fish or the angler!

Artificial flies are now made in thousands of designs and styles. The number of choices can be quite overwhelming to new fly fishers. All artificial flies have certain basic characteristics though and, despite newer materials and more choices, the basics of artificial fly manufacturing has not changed much in two thousand years of fly fishing. All artificial flies start with a hook. The hook is then disguised to resemble an actual insect that the target fish eat or to attract the target fish with color, motion, etc.

The materials that the hook is decorated with have changed over the years but some of the classic designs have not. Wool, fur and feathers were once common choices for artificial flies. Newer materials include plastic, mylar, foam and metals. These materials are either tied or glued onto the hook in special patterns to attract fish.

Fly fishing was once viewed as a sport for men. This may be due in part to the early elitist status of the sport. Even nostalgia tends to favor the masculine involvement in fly fishing. However, fly fishing is now appropriately recognized as a great sport fishing option for men and women alike. In fact, estimates are that there are well over one million women who now participate in fly fishing. Some estimates are that women now account for 15-20% of modern fly fishers.


Interestingly, the first book on fly fishing ever published was written by a woman. Dame Juliana Berners published A Treatyse of Fysshynge wyth an Angle in 1496. Berners is reported to have been a nun and noblewoman. Berners certainly must have tied and fished her own artificial flies. There are equally influential women involved in fly fishing today.

There is a growing market catering to fly fishing for women. Some outfitters are dedicated to teaching women to fly fish while other outfitters report that the number of women participating in fly fishing classes routinely outnumbers men. Fishing clubs for women are also becoming quite popular, particularly around popular fly fishing areas.

Fly fishing does not normally require a lot of physical strength. Fly fishing is far more about speed, finesse and style. Women actually do quite well at fly fishing.

The catch-and-release ethos so prevalent in fly fishing may be appealing to many women as well. While traditional fishing often closely resembled hunting trips with the objective being to bring home food, sport fishing activities like fly fishing often are more about the thrill of the catch. Photos and great memories are frequently the only thing brought home from fly fishing trips. The fish often stay right where they are. Many fly fishers even use barbless hooks now to make catch-and-release fishing even easier.

Fly fishing provides a great opportunity to get out in nature without having to kill anything. There are certainly women who fish to catch supper but many people, both men and women, enjoy fly fishing because of the opportunity it provides to get in touch with nature. Fly fishing is a very relaxing sport but also provides good exercise at the same time. The rhythm of the cast is soothing for many people. Fly fishing also provides opportunities to see a variety of wildlife and birdlife in their natural environment. The scenic backdrops around many fly fishing destinations are also simply incredible.

Fly fishing clubs and groups provide social networking opportunities and camaraderie. Men and women both enjoy these benefits. With the advent of specialty, women-only fishing clubs and groups many women are finding a home with fly fishing.

Manufacturers are also recognizing the significant increase in participation by women. Women can now buy waders that are actually designed for women - rather than relying on the closest mens size they can find. Fly fishing rods are also now being designed with women in mind. Womens fly rods are designed to be somewhat lighter and to have smaller handles. These improvements are good news for all women who enjoy the fly fishing sport.

Fly fishing is a great sport for everyone - men and women, adults and children. Everyone can enjoy a day out fly fishing.

Once you make the decision that you want to become part off the world of fly fishing, you have to then decide if you are going to keep your catches or release them back into the water safe and sound. Some fishermen keep all the fish they catch, others release all that they catch, and some choose to use a combination of the two.

These fly fishermen keep only what they are going to eat, or give to other people to eat, and release all of the other fish they catch.

If you decide to practice fly fishing using the catch and release method, it is very important that you crush the barb of the hook you are going to use. The other choice is to use a hook without barbs. This is done to avoid any unnecessary injuries to the fish. It is also important to keep the fight as short as possible so the fish does not become overtired. At the first opportunity, bring the fish to hand but do not take it out of the water. While holding it under the water, remove the hook using a pair of fishing pliers.

If the fish seems to be too tired to swim away, hold it gently just under the surface of the water with one hand around its caudal wrist, which is just ahead of the tail. With the other hand, support the fish under its belly. Rock the fish gently back and forth making sure that the water enters its mouth and flows over its gills. Using this method, the fish should gain its energy back quickly. When you feel the fish try to pull away, gently release your hold on it. Using the catch and release method of fly fishing can be very rewarding.

Often fishermen believe they should release the smaller fish that they catch and keep the larger ones. They might not be aware that the larger fish usually represent the more genetically suitable spawners. They are the ones that are the most valuable fish for keeping a healthy species. It is wiser to keep the smaller fish to eat and release the larger ones back into the water.

Some people while fly fishing, feel that it is all right to catch as many fish as possible as long as they release them all. However, catch and release is not foolproof. Many fish are injured during the process and some even die. At times, even though the fisherman doesn't keep any of the fish he catches, the overall fish mortality rate for that day is higher then if he had caught and kept the legal limit. Most fish, even if they are not physically injured, will sulk for a while after they have been released because of the trauma of being caught and released.

Catch and release fly fishing can be a wonderful way to experience the sport. Every release of a fish contributes to the conservation efforts that ensures the future of having future stocks of fish.

In addition to the clothing and your balanced outfit there are many accessories that you should have for fly fishing. Some of these accessories may seem strange, but when wading, it is necessary to have all of your gear and tools with you.

You already have your fly fishing vest with plenty of large pockets, because that is part of a fly fisherman's basic wardrobe. You might want to put a patch of sheepskin on the front of the vast where you can keep alternative flies handy. You should also have a spring-loaded retractable spool that attaches to your vest to hold a pair of nail clippers. They come in very handy for trimming knots. You might want to attach a patch of rubber for straightening leaders. Ideally, the vest should have a large back pocket to carry light rain gear. Some vests also have a ring at the back of the collar, where you can attach the net to keep it out of the way.

The choice of your fly boxes is very important. One should have large compartments where you can store dry flies without crushing their hackles. You should also have one or two smaller boxes with foam linings and metal clips. These are for holding your wet flies, nymphs, and streamers. Having a couple of small vials to hold your dry of flies after catching a fish also comes in very handy.

A spare spool for your reel, already loaded with backing and line, is a good idea to have with you. Also a few spools of monofilament leader material, a leader wallet, a sharpening stone, and a Swiss Army knife are important for the fly fisherman to have within easy reach.

Insect repellent is essential when fly fishing. The main ingredient in many insect repellents is DEET, which is an industrial solvent and can damage the varnish on your fly rod, eat away the finish on your fly line, weaken your leaders and destroy your rain gear. If you do use an insect repellent with DEET be very careful of what it touches and try to limit its use. There are many products today that do not contain that solvent.

Having a good pair of polarized sunglasses will help you to see the fish and protect your eyes from the damaging rays of the sun. It's also important to have a small pocket flashlight with a flexible neck. This can be very useful for many things including changing flies at dusk or dawn. Other useful items include a thermometer, a small container of split shot, a good knife with several blades, and a small first aid emergency kit.

Many fishermen like to take a collapsible wading staff with them while fly fishing. It helps them to keep their footing if they are wading in a heavy current or on a slippery, rocky bottom. A small cotton mesh net with a short handle comes in handy for netting your fish. If you intend to keep your catch a small canvas or woven willow basket for holding your fish will work well.

There are many other accessories available for fly fishing today. Many of the choices depend on each fisherman's personal preferences.

All across the United States there are many beautiful, exciting places that are excellent or fly fishing. The following article just highlights a few of them.

Sitka, Alaska is a major stopover for salmon heading to British Columbia, Washington, and other Alaskan waters. Fly fishermen at Sitka, have a higher fishing catch rate than any other marine area in Southeast Alaska. June is the best month for fishing this area.

The Colorado River at Lees Ferry, Arizona, is one of the best fly fishing spots for rainbow trout. The fish are comfortable all year round in a 15-mile stretch of cold water that flows from the depths of Lake Powell between Glen Canyon Dam and the upper end of the Grand Canyon. Fly fishermen can also book a guide and go flats fishing for 25 pound carp.

Saltwater fly fishing is at its best at Montauk Point, New York. Montauk Point is the easternmost point of Long Island and is best known for striper fishing. Fly fishermen have miles of beautiful shoreline in which they can cast their fly.

Gunpowder Falls, Maryland, is an excellent place to catch cold water trout. A deal was struck by the Maryland state authorities and Trout Unlimited to start cold water releases from Pretty Boy Dam. This has resulted in a combination of wild and stocked brown, brook, and rainbow trout. Most of the fly fishing is in Gunpowder Falls State Park.

Fishing Creek, Pennsylvania, is one of the states top wild trout streams. It generally stays cool throughout the summer. There is a five-mile stretch called the Narrows, near Lamar, that is a very popular area for fly fishing.

Driftless Area, Wisconsin, has many excellent fly fishing streams loaded with brown trout. There is excellent access to all of southwestern Wisconsin's eight counties. There are 68 streams in Vernon County alone, including Kickapoo River and Timber Coulee Creek. Most fly fishermen in this area use mayfly and caddis imitations.

Laguna Madre, Texas, is full of rivers and lakes that are excellent fly fishing locations. Texas also has its southern coast, which is among the world's greatest saltwater fly fishing areas. The saltwater flats of Laguna Madre, next to Padre Island, are full of all different kinds of fish that make for a great fly fishing experience.

Henry's Fork, Idaho, is a great destination for rainbow trout. If you are fishing the Island Park area, it is better to fish in runoff conditions.

Lake C. W. McConaughy, Nebraska, is the largest lake in the state and also has some of the best fly fishing. Another excellent fly fishing spot in Nebraska is the Fremont Lakes State Recreation Area, which is a series of twenty sandpit lakes that have been carved into the Platte River basin. Red Willow reservoir is also a favorite of fly fishermen in this area of the country.


Kauai, Hawaii, is a great spot for fly fishing largemouth, smallmouth, and peacock bass. This Garden Isle also has excellent saltwater fly fishing.

Whether you like fresh or salt water fly fishing, there are thousands of places to fish across the country that offer the fly fisherman endless opportunities and experiences.

Montana is full of rivers. Thousands of miles of rivers snake their way across all corners of the state. And in these rivers can be found some of the finest fly fishing for trout anywhere.

Yet, for better or for worse, many of the rivers in Montana are not especially friendly to wade fishermen. Either the river is inaccessible, too wide, too deep and the list goes on

Because of this, anglers in search of trout and fishing holes that aren't over-run with heavy use, frequently must resort to floating the rivers in Montana. And for the solo angler, few boats match the versatility and cost of a pontoon boat. Pontoon boats provide the solo angler an easy, and affordable, method to fish mile after mile of river in Montana (or elsewhere, for the matter).

In short, if you need a dedicated (note the emphasis on dedicated) boat for fly fishing, you'll have a hard time finding a better boat for fishing than a pontoon boat.

To help anglers visiting Montana who need a boat to hit the water, this section on Big Sky Fishing has been prepared. Hopefully by the time you are done wading through the information you'll have a good idea about what boat you want to get, how to use it and where to get it.

If you already know what you want, Cabela's is the best place to locate whatever kind of pontoon boat you need. They have a huge selection of pontoon boats from Creek Company, Outcast, Trout Unlimited and many others.

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